meeting Henri Dunster

Well, at the Hash I was also able to meet a lot of new people. One woman in particular, Phyllis, struck up conversation and became an integral part of the next couple of weeks. Phyllis is a former teacher, who now works at the University of Miami at Ohio. She was in Belize as a supervisor for a group of college students that are doing their student teaching at various schools in Belmopan.


After the Hash, I met up with Phyllis and her students to have dinner. It was wonderful getting to know how the students felt about their experiences and Belize in general. I saw myself and my reactions when I first arrived in their current perspectives. It’s amazing how time changes the way you look at things, or how you come to better understand your surroundings once you become local. That realization was worth more than anything. I’m not from Belize and have a long way to go before I fully understand all of the quirks of this culture and how its different from my own, but hearing them made me see that there is progress.

After the dinner, Phyllis dropped me at my house and invited me to go with her and her students to visit a British man that does drawings of local Mayan ruins, Henri Dunster. He originally travelled to Belize 30 years ago and returned about 7 years ago to live. He’s a slight man with hippie tendencies and a wonderful ability to both draw and capture the beautiful Mayan history that is still here in Belize. Some of his drawings of the steles from 30 years ago are now national archives because they no longer exist in the physical – rain and erosion has diminished the surfaces of these ancient structures.

Henri invited us to his studio and showed off his work, telling his personal story and his opinion on various archaeological works being done on various Mayan ruins in Belize currently. His most recent project has been to create a scale model of el Pilar – a ruin that is currently non-excavated. However, using GPS technology and an artist’s skill, he successfully has accomplished this. Pictures are below.

He has also come to a conclusion about how he thinks the ancient Mayan ball game was played. He’s created various parts of the outfit the Mayans wore based on a stele of the game that he drew some 30 years ago. He’s put together a book explaining his theory and is convinced that he’s unearthed this magnificent mystery that surrounds Puk-ta-Puk. It’s an interesting idea…but my jury is still out. :0)



Either way, this visit was wonderful and I completely loved learning something new about the local culture. I was enthralled the entire evening…yes, I suppose I’m a cultural anthropologist nerd at heart and there’s nothing I can do about it. There are worse things one can be!

To view Henri’s work or learn more about his life story, visit mayadrawings.com.

red dress run 2010!

Let me tell you a story about my first HASH….and this is by far one of the best things I have participated in during my time living in Belmopan! It all started with a harmless email from my friend Sharanya. She knows that I have a difficult time finding things to fill weekends and week nights within Belmopan. The city is alive during the work day…and non-existent any other time. UNLESS, you know the right people…and Sharanya knows them all. :0) And so, she invited me to join her and a few ex-pats in the HASH.


So, I took her up on the offer. A HASH is a walk/run event that takes place in various communities periodically. As a participant, you start from one point and run a trail that the Hare has marked out. The trail is different each time and is marked out using flour. While running, you must be on the look out for these flour markings. Three circles in a row means that you’re running the right path. However, it gets a bit tricky because some of the markings require you to check the direction of the trail. At these junctions, people can run either right, left, or straight ahead, looking for those three circles. If they come to an x, then they’re not on the right path and must turn around and try again. This whole process is also accompanied by drinking breaks, and various other silly things. At the end of the HASH, the group circles around and sings ridiculous songs and welcomes new people. SO much fun!

Now, this specific HASH was the Red Dress Run. It’s held once a year and serves as a fundraiser for the group. This year, our monies were donated to Mary Open Doors (a domestic violence shelter in Cayo) and a local orphanage in Belmopan. So, as a fundraiser – we paid our entry fee and then were required to come to the event in a red dress. Everyone. In a red dress. At first I thought maybe this was a joke, meant to embarrass new Hashers…but that was not the case. The story goes that this event was started a couple years ago after a woman apparently showed up to a normal HASH wearing a red dress, not understanding what it was. She ran it anyway….and the rest is history. I’d like to thank her for a Saturday full of gut wrenching laughter and new friends. Take a look for yourself:

After the HASH, we were invited to the British High compound for a BBQ lunch and some swimming and of course -drinking. I’ve learned that the British hold events surrounded by the latter and thoroughly enjoy participating in this aspect. When I left sober, I was scolded and told that I’d be held accountable for such an atrocity at the next Hash. I guess I’ll have to go again just to find out….only next time, without a lovely red dress!

merida!!!

Well after the events of October, a few of the volunteers decided that it was time for a break! Now, I know that many of you will disagree with “needing a vacation” considering all of the things that I write about that seem fun and exciting. But, in my defense, there is a decided difference in what constitutes tropical paradise after you live and work in what many consider one for over a year. It is simply home at this point and I needed a break. SO...off to Merida I went for Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). Merida is located in the northern Yucatan- about 40 minutes from the port town of Progresso. Its an old colonial city with wonderful architecture and has rich, active cultural scene.


I played organizer –aka MOM – and rounded up a few other volunteers to travel with me...because traveling is always more fun when you have witnesses to verify ridiculous stories. We left Saturday morning for the border...and then hopped on our bus to Merida at 1:30pm, following a lovely lunch with Juan (a hotel manager that helped us along and entertained us for an hour) in Chetumal.

Kristen, me & Matt the night before our trip to Mexico

After the LONG bus ride, we arrived at 7:30 and took a cab to our hostel. The Santa Lucia Hostel was wonderful lucky for us, it was close to the action. Upon check-in, I was told that I had two messages waiting for me....FANCY! Turns out they were both from my friends Emily and Lilly, who had already attempted to meet up with our group twice and were vexed that we had not yet arrived. After freshening up and changing clothes, I finally took a minute to relax and enjoy the fact that I was no longer on a stuffy bus. This lasted all of two seconds....right up until Emily came tearing in, screaming my name...ready to cause a commotion if we had STILL not yet arrived. Love her enthusiasm!






Sta. Lucia Hostel

AND...the fact that she and Lilly had shopped for provisions to welcome us properly into this beautiful country. TEQUILA. The group gathered, poured drinks, and “Cheers” –d our trip, the our friends, then Mexico, then.....then I stopped keeping track. It was wonderful! We then headed to a local restaurant where I proceeded to drink my dinner and take in the surroundings.



me with dinner :)




me and Lilly

After dinner, we all split up and did various tours of bars and music scenes. I found Bud Light!!! And was heartbroken when I learned that it was too let for the store to sell it to me...but I cannot tell you how much seeing something other than Belikin MADE my night. Or it could have just been the effects of tequila?? Anyway, my friend Peter and I decided to call it a night and headed back to our hostel. Until we got sidetracked by a live rock band, and then a local traditional band....where we both paid for the most expensive Coronas of our lives. Ah, well... Eventually we made it home...crawled into our respective beds and relished in gloriousness that was Mexico!

Until about 8am...where once again, Lilly and Emily were yelling for us to get moving for the day. I seriously wonder when those two caught some sleep... We mulled around for a while and finally got ready and headed out on the streets in search of breakfast. Of course, this took forever since we kept stopping along the walk to look at various local art and gifts. And this was how we spent the day.... shopping, eating, eventually napping, and then starting the process all over again. By evening, we were excited to go out and see the local festivities for day of the dead. Alters had been constructed the night we arrived and were on display in the Gran Plaza the entire day. They disassembled them in the evening, and then had various activities going on. There was dancing, drumming, and a photo op with a women painted silver.... Lots of variation in Merida!



an alter in the town center

We ended the night by seeing a Rasta/Reggae concert in the middle of an old courtyard. It was my first time hearing Reggae in Spanish, and it was quite the experience....

The final full day in Merida was dedicated to some cultural activities. This was by far, my favourite part of the trip. Maybe its because I majored in Anthropology – and more importantly, love cultural anthropology…but I ate it up! We started the morning walking to the central Plaza. The old Governor’s mansion/compound is open for tourists to peruse through…so we helped ourselves. The walls were completely covered with art work! Most on the bottom floor were all done by the same artist who had a way with drawing in some serious emotion to all of the pieces of work. ON the second floor, there was a small gallery with other historical pieces. A lot of them told the story of the Yucatán region of Mexico. It was a unique telling of the story of the infiltration of the European and the damage and destruction caused….while still maintaining the strength and endurance of the Yucatán culture and people.

One of the pieces of artwork

After touring this, a few of us decided to take a tour of the city via double decker bus. Cassidy and I stopped in the local church first to have a quiet moment in this amazing city, and then we got our cameras ready! The bus tour was completely fantastic. At each point along the way, the local landmarks were described and histories given. Unfortunately between the megaphone-like sound system and the fact that this was done in Spanish, I have a feeling I missed out on all the details. Either way, a few pictures are below so you can enjoy as well.

monument honoring Mexico

The rest of the day was spent wandering around the city and shopping/eating. We were able to view a few of the altars set up for Dia de los Muertos and I wandered into a bookstore to revel in the amazingness of literature! (got myself a book of Yucatán Mayan legends). Overall, it was a fabulous mini vacation and I recommend it to anyone that has a sense of adventure and a basic knowledge of the Spanish language.

bully fighting stadium in Merida









September to Hurricane Richard

Looks like it’s about time for my quarterly update...don’t you all love that I’m completely on top of this blog?! So, let’s see – what do I have to update you all on...


September

I started the month by traveling north to Corozal for St. George’s Caye Day. A couple friends and I walked along the coastal road, eating local cuisine and listening to the Punta music blare into the wee hours of the morning. This was followed by traveling to Mexico for a day trip in honour of a friend’s birthday. We spent the day drinking and swimming at Xul Ha. It’s a lovely little oasis of a lake – fresh water! – in the state of Quintanaroo.

Me & Alvin

Taylor, Holly, Me & Alvin

Then, of course, September celebrations continued. I walked with the students of my school in our School Children’s Rally parade. Garden City had a huge float and our dancers were stellar. Sadly, my pictures did not survive a technological oops, so you’ll have to imagine it in all its glory. For Independence Day itself, I opted to stay in Belmopan and experience the evening. At midnight there is a fireworks display down at Independence Plaza. For all my genius, I thought this activity would be an excellent one to take Trafford to. I’m assuming all you pet owners can see the idiocracy of such a move. He was wonderful with the crowd, enjoying lounging on our blanket until the gun salute started. Sheer panic! .... Once I successfully got his collar back on (because he wriggled out of it in 2.5sec), we took a little sprint walk back to the house, Trafford choking himself the whole way. He spent the rest of the evening cowering on the futon, while I went back to enjoy the festivities.



October up to Merida

After Independence Day, school finally starts to settle in to more of a regular routine. I have the privilege this year of fostering a pen pal program between a class at my school and my mom’s class. My students LOVE it and while they are struggling with writing and understanding English, they can’t get enough. It is by far my favourite activity of the school year thus far.

But – aside from school, I’ve been keeping busy in other things. The first weekend of October I participated in a soccer game of Peace Corps volunteers vs. a local team in Esperanza village. We lost 2-4, but we played well (despite the sudden downpour near half time).

I went to Benque to visit my friend Emily and witnessed the Miss Cultura pageant. It was completely wonderful, totally Belizean, and by the end of it, I was simply ready for bed. Let me explain....The pageant featured 4 young women who each competed with song, dance, and a cultural skit highlighting different facets of the Mayan/Mestizo lifestyle. And it was done all in Spanish...kitchen Spanish. The program was to begin at 7, so we naturally got started close to 8:30. Each act was followed by musical filler from the Marimba, or from one of the contestants for a local “American Idol” type production, Duets. SO.....nearing 1am, I was finished attempting translation in my head, parched, and quite ready to hear them announce the winner. Moral of the story – 6 hours of a pageant later and my favourite was gipped! UGH. AND- bars were closing so we couldn’t even be bitter with style...so Emily and I headed home. Deepest sleep of my life!

the Benque Catholic Church... so pretty

On the 22nd, myself and several other volunteers led an H.F.L.E. (Health & Family Life Education) session for several teachers in the Cayo district that teach at our government schools. This was the first such session that the HIV/AIDS committee held to introduce a supplemental manual that we’ve created to assist teachers with the tricky subjects (puberty, feelings, HIV/AIDS, etc.). It was the culmination of several months of work by many and we were really pleased with how it went. I’m even more excited that the teachers from my school found the material useful enough to immediately begin with it in the classroom at Garden City.



So what could possibly top off the end of my month?? Hurricane Richard. Now, Belmopan has been labelled by Belizeans as the safe zone. The government offices relocated here after the Hurricane in 1961 (along with several other political offices, including the US Embassy & Peace Corps four years ago). Located in the middle of the country, it very rarely feels the effects of coastal storms –and most of the hurricanes impact the north-east or south-east parts of the country. Until now. Hurricane Richard was simply the small percentage chance that everyone underestimates. On Sunday, October 24th, Richard hit Belize...right in the middle. It then produced to travel along our western highway all the way to the Guatemalan border where it slowly dissipated. Seriously...right along the highway. Such a nice passing guest...keeping to the main road and all. Unfortunately, this is where several of the villages are. From Belize City to Belmopan was the hardest hit. Clean-up is still being done in smaller communities where housing structures were simply not able to hold up against the wind of a Category 1 hurricane. Several national parks have been destroyed and still remain unopened.... and yet, we are all grateful that it was ONLY a Category 1. My house was fine, although I had a serious tree clean-up to undertake the next morning. Power was restored within a day for Belmopan (yay for living in the Capital!) and things quickly got back to normal. Pictures of damage around my town are below:

Metal rod in the backyard tree...

my pile of debris -7am, Oct. 25th

Trafford: this is his version of helping out :0)



There is a house under those trees...somewhere.



Apparently soon open gets to keep its name....it lost its entire roof!

My school garden - minor set back!